Fashion is all about proportions, especially when it comes to this season’s catwalk. From corsets and belts to understated tailoring, it’s time to welcome the return of the waist.
If you look at the catwalks, you can see plenty of juxtapositions. Bright colours meet neutrals, minis compete with maxis and high heels share a place on the catwalk with mules, kitten heels and crocs. Sizeless apparel and loose-fitting sleeves have dominated the catwalks of late, but nothing beats an hourglass silhouette. So it’s fortunate that several designers are returning to the flattering gimmick of a well-defined waist, whether it’s waist-tightening belts, lace-up corsets or simply elaborate tailoring. And it’s perfect for summer too.
As a respite from the sporty holiday, many designers also incorporated corseted waists into their silhouettes for autumn, including Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior and Donatella at Versace, the latter recalling 90s style, wearing minimal bustiers both on their own and in flawless style over long-sleeved dresses. As for Grazia Chiuri, she brought a more modern twist to the trend, introducing leather corsets with cut-outs, perfect for after-hours.
Wide belts can also create the illusion of a cinched waist, as seen on the runways of Hermès, Balmain, Carolina Herrera and more.
For those who want to follow the trend in a more natural way, without a corset, tactile tailoring is your friend. Some creators, such as Jason Wu and Huishan Zhang, didn’t add extra accessories at all to draw attention to the waistline. Instead, they incorporated this flattering detail directly into the garment design, as Donatella did in a number of her designs for Versace. In other designs, Alexander McQueen let the cigarette trousers accentuate the tailoring trend, while Loewe emphasised the hourglass shape with patchy trousers extending beyond the waist. If you’re still out of ideas, try using Tiffany’s magic trick and wear a wide belt with a nice white shirt tucked into high-waisted leggings or a puffy skirt for a 1950s silhouette.