Simplicity is not the first word that comes to mind when you look at Givenchy collections. But Matthew M. Williams’ second collection for the house felt like a new straightforwardness. “I’m interested in creating clothes that people will wear and that ease,” he explained before the show.

“Chic nonchalance” is how Matthew M. Williams describes Givenchy’s fall/winter 2022 men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections. We, on the other hand, have been transported to adolescence, when graphic T-shirts and black-on-black ensembles were closet staples. Shown simultaneously, Givenchy’s fall/winter 2022 collections provided a heavy dose of nostalgia, combined with streetwear-oriented silhouettes – layered T-shirts, cropped sweatshirts and roomy pants – and oversized accessories. However, Givenchy’s signature structure persisted in fitted coats and formal wear, while flashes of femininity were represented by head-to-toe sequins and dresses with ruffles. To complete the gothic aesthetic, the models’ faces were minimally painted and adorned with faux piercings.

The Givenchy collection is dominated by black and dark green tones.

“It’s just about today. My work is really instinctive,” Williams says. This was evident in the black cloth gloves he wore backstage and on the bow, as well as the balaclavas that were on display. – “In America, a lot of kids I know wear them.”  At Givenchy, you could say that Williams simply reflected our culture’s casual approach to dressing on a very sublime runway.